"Ice Cold in Santiago"

Well, we strode in to Santiago, whistling to the tune of Colonel Bogey, walking poles held high, despite extreme tiredness. But, no way, would anybody in the square know that we had not just come from round the corner! We met another American friend, Ed, who showed us where to go to get our certificate. We had been advised that to receive this, spiritual questions had to be satisfactorily answered. We had practised for the last few kilometres our spiritual feelings. However we were greeted, not by an abbot as we expected, in a darkened room flavoured with incense, but by a row of young people behind computers, happily doling out certificates to those with the necessary stamps on the Credential.

As we were not booked in to the Parador Hotel until the following day, we accepted a room from a dubious looking lady, touting for business. The room turned out to be rather dingy and smelly, but it was only for one night and the luxurious Parador awaited.

The following morning we gathered our kit and set off for the Parador, where they agreed to let us into our room at 9am. The hotel turned out to be good not worth the hype.

Sadly the volcanic disturbance affected our enjoyment as our flight was cancelled the day after we left the Parador. We therefore had to find cheap rooms as the next flight was 5 days later. Unknowingly we organised this ourselves. It later turned out we were the resposiblity of the airline company. During this 5 days we visited museums and places of cultural interest, but were in no mood really to enjoy it, as we only wanted to go home.

Finally the day arrived to leave for England. We had slept in the airport all night so as to be sure nothing would prevent us from boarding the flight! Not an experience to be repeated.

Arriving home in England and seeing all the leaves and blossoms was truly a welcome in itself. Our taxi was on time at Stansted airport and we drove happily to Forest Row.

We would both to say a special thanks to our friends who gave such encouraging and insightful comments on our journey.

We have 2500 pictures which we will sort out over the next week or so and will post them on the blog shortly.

A special thanks to Terry Crosby who inspired us in the Peak District. Congratulations to Jon for his successful trek to Everest base camp and topping out on his climb, his trip looked fantastic. A very special thankyou to our neighbours, John and Sue, who kept an eye on our house and worldly goods and their encouraging comments. To Yvonne, thank you for following our route and your prayers to St.James did help as we had very little rain, you must finish it next year!

Until the next "Two Pensioners" adventure, goodbye for now.

Green Galician hills

We are now 2 days away from our goal, having walked through countryside that is very reminiscent of Devon, rich green grass, old stone dwellings, many dating back centuries. A lot of pilgrims are now on the route having joined near the end. They are easily recognisable - they are very energetic, seem to be skipping along and carry tiny rucsacs. We are now met by taxis at the top of every hill, eager to whisk the tired pilgrim off to the next town. Needless to say the writer says: "Get ye behind me Satan"! and points to Heaven when the driver asks if we want a lift. We are both very tired now and our speed is slowing down, but will march into Santiago in a style that befits the English trekker.

Last post on 21st April.

To everybody who has followed our exploits we can elaborate on any areas.

Photos will also be posted when we return home.

Two tired pensioners

Sickness strikes the team leader!

We arrived at Tria castela after crossing more hills with all the mountains now behind us and by chance picked up a leaflet for a pension for Casa Olga. This nice private house became a refuge as that evening we had dinner in the town where Anthony had some bad meat and was violently sick early in the morning and whilst attempting to eat breakfast. As "luck" would have it the owner pointed out the medical centre 50 yards away where we visited and gastro-enteritis was diagnosed, a prescription written and taken to the pharmacy, another 50 yards away. Anthony spent all day in bed in a bad way. However the following day he made a recovery and we set off again, a little slower and a little less confident. We find ourselves now at a delightful pension dating back centuries, and as usual are about to retire to dinner.

Thankfully we now seem to have left the albergues and bedbugs behind us. We are looking forward to our stay at the at the Parador in Santiago.

Returning to Uk on 21st April.

Two pensioners

You pays yer money and yer takes yer choice.

We decided to take a diversion across a mountain ridge marked "very difficult"! Big mistake! We set set off with confidence on a very steep climb to the ridge top in blazing sunshine and the proceeded across the ridge for about 4 hours with hair raising views and the most amazing wild flowers. However our problems began when we reached what we thought was the end. We could see the village in the valley below but could not see a track to get to it. We decided to take one of many tracks down only to find half way down a very steep descent the track petered out into an impassible gorge. After much hand wringing Marion convinced Anthony to go back to the top and start again. We sat down to have a drink and were totally exhausted. There were many tracks down to choose from, all of which could have ended in nowhere. It was very quiet and very still and from nowhere a bunch of leaves blew up and seemed to point to a track, so we thought this is as good as any and followed it which led us to a road and to the village at the bottom of the valley.

The following day we ascended the last high mountain which after yesterday was pretty strenuous, right into what was left of the snowline. The real difficulty came when we descended as this went on for ever and ever on rock strewn paths. Marion was at her absolute limit now, almost unable to walk. The "Myth of Sisyphus" comes to mind as we were constantly going up and down.

Knee wrenching hell, luxury and a hot bath

We set off up to the top of the mountain where we booked in to the albergue. Thank fully this wonderful place had full central heating. We had a regional dinner of baked hake and salad and retired to our bunk beds. We left early, in the dark using our haed torches as a guide, to descend the mountain, which was above the snowline. Unfortunately the descent, although the most beautiful part of the Camino, was the most treachorous, with rock strewn paths all the way. After 6 or 7 hours we arrived at beautiful medieval village, after crossing an ancient bridge. We decided we had earnt a Hostal and booked in for the night. The bedroom overlooked the river and the bridge and had a modern bathroom. After much soaking we had dinner at the restaurant opposite where we had a very tasty local wine which enabled us to sleep well!

The following morning we set off along a more level track to our next stop only to find the albergue was closed, so reluctantly (!) we booked into another hostal in a room with its own patio and as we write we are planning to go out to dinner.
Anthony has just had a haircut in readiness for his arrival in Santiago.

A peregrino has a hard life!

Two pensioners

Mystical Knights and Mountain paradise

We have made a real friend with the Knight of the Maltese Cross whose name is Andrea. Anthony and he really got on well together and are going to share information on a religious project in the mountains.

We left the Medieval albergue to start our climb into the mountains. This was an idyllic experience with amazing views, rock stream paths, mountain flowers and when you stood still the only noise you could hear were the insects and bees pollinating wild flowers. Also to be heard were hoopoes and ravens.

We had been told by Andrea to look out for a philanthrop, by the name of David, who set up a stall in the middle of nowhere, giving organic food and drink to the pilgrims for free, all through the year. Sure enough, out of the blue we came across this stall full of organic drinks, hot coffee and homemade cakes. Apparently he lives in an old barn nearby. The only payment he asks for is an obligatory hug and a smile from the pilgrims. However we did leave a donation.

Today´s trek in the mountains was more severe as we headed for Convento de Foncebadon, at 1450 metres in height. The hardship was offset by the stunning views and loneliness. The weather has now improved, the frighteningly cold winds have now eased, and the sun is shining. Those of you who are familiar with Richard Hannay will know what it means to have a picnic on a lonely road or path in remote hills

We are now going to have our dinner at the first Albergue to have heating, in four days.

Two pensioners

Freezing refugios and medieval monks house

We agreed to stay at a refugio that looked really interesting, old beams, stone floors and the owners had recently refurbished it. We decided to take a single room. The hallway had a wood burning stove which after investigation was the only form of heating in the entire building. They apparently did not feel the need to put heating in the bedrooms or the bathrooms. The water was not hot either. The entire place was immaculately restored without any heating!

Our next refugio, recommended by the previous one was worse as the wood burning stove was tiny. However it was great fun as we had a home cooked meal plus some moonshine which we felt we had to drink as the owner had made it himself!

We are now staying at the oldest albergue on the Camino which has a medieval courtyard and well. This has heating and the Hospitalero is a knight of the Maltese Cross who is extraordinary and a charming host. As we are English he has given us some bacon to cook for our breakfast.

We are now close to the snowy mountains where we will ascend to 1500 metres.

Two pensioners