Storms, gales and no room at the inn

We were welcomed at the posh hotel and shown into a vast dining room where we were the only guests. The owner looked after us with a wonderful meal. We spent a pleasant evening dining and talking to him before retiring to our wonderful refugio. More on pilgrim life tomorrow.

The following morning we set off up the steep climb into the Montes de Oca. A gruelling, lung bursting episode. Then 12 kilometres through the forest without seeing a single wolf or bandit apart from wonderful wildlife. We planned to stay the night at Ages but felt confident enough to move on to the next village. And then it started,high up in the hills - ferocious winds and torrential rain. Not so good as the evening is drawing to an end and we were unsure where we were. We sighted the small village of Villaval where we were to pick up the key for the refuge at the next village, at the house next to the church. However the church was burnt down and no sign of life anywhere. We noted another refuge atthe next village. After repeated knocking at a bar we were told it opens "manana". We are now very wet and cold and move on to the next village where we are told the refuge at the village after this is also closed. However the patron says there are two hotels at Villafria some 6 kilometres away. By now it is getting dark and this is our last shot before we get the storm shelter out for the night!

After a manic hike, with really sore feet, by the side of a motorway we saw the most wonderful sign in the sky - HOTEL, still half an hour walk away. When we arrived we opted for the hostel next door which had a great atmosphere full of Spanish eating, drinking and smoking. We had another minor miracle -an english speaking pirate lookalike who took to us and organised our room. We collapsed in bed, feet aching and completely exhausted. We covered over 20 miles, non stop, up and down in 11 and a half hours.

The following morning we were served wonderful coffee,croissants and eggs and bacon, after which, still the worse for wear, we caught the bus into Burgos and booked into a semi-posh hotel. We are now leaving for dinner opposite and hope tomorrow will be better.

Two pensioners