Miracle on the Camino

For those that believe in miracles, read on. For those that don´t skip this bit. Yesterday we arrived at Viloria de Rioja late in the afternoon, Marion was exhausted and at breaking point and could go no further. I left her sitting on a bench and went in search of the albergue. Having found it it appeared deserted, however I banged on the door and the owner answered only to say it was closed and he was leaving in 5 minutes. I asked him if the albergue in the next village was open and he said no. This meant a 9 kilometer trek which in Marion´condition was impossible. He then said he would take us to the next albergue as he was leaving in the next 5 minutes. We accepted his offer and arrived thankfully and had a beer in the sun.

The following morning Marion felt much better and we set off for a half day trek after sending back more clothes to lighten Marion´s rucsack.

This morning´s walk was so peaceful with no other peregrinos in sight. The countryside was green valleys with little medeival villages a few kilometres apart where we stopped for coffee and sat in the sun beside ancient churches that have stood for hundreds of years. The village of Tosantos dates back to 950, at which time pilgrims were passing through. This connection with the past is intensified as there is little movement or sign of life in the villages we passed through.

As we walk between the hilltop villages we are surrounded by vast open spaces which gives us a sense of isolation and lightheadedness, almost an olympian view of life.

Tomorrow we climb up into the Montes de Oca and this leads onto one of the most difficult stretches of the Camino. In medeival times wolves and bandits, in the dense forest, threatened defenceless pilgrims. We have now stocked with meats, cheeses, cakes and bread for our journey as there is no habitation through the forest.

We are now closing in on Burgos, a historic city with a massive Gothic cathedral where we shall take a cultural break to refresh our souls.

We have now covered 150 miles and are going out to dinner at a posh hotel although we are not sure if the receptionist was trying to tell us we are not dressed properly!

Two pensioners