Brutal monotony in Force 8 winds.

We set off on our 17.5 k trek with no habitation or stops on a straight, monotonous and very exposed track which lasted 4 hours. There was a severe head wind all the way which battered us constantly and which did not let up. This was a time for heads down and just keep going and resist the thought of giving up. The following day we had an icy cold wind which still blew constantly and had a very demoralising effect. We were very glad to reach our bed!

As nothing hugely dramatic is happening we thought we would tell you what it is like to be a pilgrim.

We arrive at the refugio usually around 4pm, pay our 5 euros and get our credentials stamped. This must be stamped every evening to qualify for the certificate in Santiago. We then find a bed,amongst many bunk beds, sometimes up to 60 in one room.We lay out our sleeping bags and silk liner and go and have a shower,etc., paying special attention to our feet. After that we have dinner,a special pilgrim menu for 10 euros. We also have to do our washing and then find a radiator to dry it on. Failing to do this limits the opportunity for friendship! 7.30 to 8.30 pm, most people are in bed trying to sleep. However during the night the noises start, moaning, snoring, howling and much more. At 6am you wake up in the dark and with your torch your gather all your possessions and creep out of the room to pack for the day. A quick bathroom visit and it is "lock and load" and you are off. The first thing we look for are the yellow arrows which we then follow out of the village and into the countryside. These arrows are placed strategically so that we may follow them to the next village. This however is much more difficult in a city where they are on bins, pavements and trees. Having bought our lunch of bread cheese, meats, etc., the night before, our first stop is for coffee at a village bar, usually with stickies. At around lunch time, it the sun is shining we will have a picnic,very enjoyable if we are in the mountains and it is very remote. However at the moment it is bleak and remote and we are happy just to get out of the wind to eat our food.

More mountains are imminent, where snow, sleet and rain is the norm. Tomorrow we are still on the Meseta,so probably more of the same hostile weather and monotonous paths.

Two pensioners on the front line of the Camino